45man sng strategija (low limits)

Jei kas turit panasiu zaideju startegiju pasidalinkit

A guide to 45 man turbo sngs on PokerStars.

They fill extremely fast enabling you to play a lot of them. People suck at push/fold poker and I believe the 45 mans are the softest on stars and the easiest way to build a BR at the 1.10, 3.25 and 6.5 and 12 dollar level.

WHY 45 MANS?

I don’t think the play really changes much in these until you reach the 27$ level, and while I have very limited # of games played in the 27$ and + buy in range due to switching over almost exclusively to cash games as ive built my br, the 45 mans are still one of the easiest games to have a very high ROI as well if you get on a nice heater, which can jumpstart a br w/o having near the swongs of the 180 mans. Swings in the 45’s happen, but are not near as brutal as 180 turbos.

BUY INS:

This is completely dependent on your tolerance for risk of ruin. Risk of ruin is you chances of going bust/ losing the br. If you dont want to have to redposit then prolly 50 buy ins or more is needed, but I think you can play these with about 30 buy ins to move up quickly. I think I’ve gone anywhere from 10-15 in a row w/o even cashing, which can be extremely frustrating, but this brings me to my next point.

VOLUME:

Its absolutely critical to put in volume playing these. As I noted the swings can be brutal, and the more tables you play the more immune you become to some of the nasty stuff that happens as you play more hands. It also helps you get to the “long run” quicker” If you cant play 4 tables at a time, you need to learn how.

Hopefully you will get to the point where you can play 6-8 at a time, which most importantly will help you play extremely tight early (which is necessary) bc its extremely difficult to open a bunch of marginal hands playing a lot of tables at one time. Obv there are people who play waaaay more than 6-8 tables at a time (see sidnoobis, mr durden and acid for their specific sngs) but the vast majority of players playing this small of stakes don’t have autohotkeys/game pad set up . However, even w/o that set up, anywhere from 4-8 tables is very doable, and some can still 12 table w/o ahk and gamepad for these.

HUDS:

If you have PT or HEM with a hud running you have a huge advantage for your push/fold decisions in the end game. I know people say stats don’t matter, but when youre multitabling and its folded to you in the sb with 8 bbs and theres an ante in play you really don’t want to be shoving 26s into the 72/15/2 bb. However, if the bb is 12/10/3 then guess who you really want to be shoving on with atc? I hope the answer is obv.

STRATEGY

10/20 and 15/30 level

1. Our basic strategy is uber uber tight at the early levels. This is for a lot of reasons.

2. Losing chips hurt youre $EV more than the increase you get for $ev when you add chips

3. We have a huge edge by applying proper pushing and re-shoving strategy in these as long as we make it to the 50/100 level with a 10-18 bb stack which normally will be the case

4. Most of our opponents will be playing waaay too many hands and calling waaay too many raises pre flop. This means when we open to 60 in the HJ theres a realistic possibility we get flatted by 3 or 4 people. This makes playing hands like KJs and ATo and so on and on not that profitable in these specific sngs, especially given the points noted above.

5. Set mining. DO IT. Don’t open to 3x or 4x with 66 from UTG+1. Just limp along and try to get to the flop as cheaply as possible. Yes this is easily exploited by good players, but guess what, youre not playing against them. Limp your pairs, even first to the pot at the 10/20 and 15/30 level from just about any mid and early position. I still cant let myself open limp in the CO or on the btn with these though.

6. 3 betting ranges (im typically flatting TT-22 and AQ unless its a nit reg opening and then ill even muck aq. Ak and JJ+ is a fine 3 betting range and be prepared to go with it aipf typically

7. AK. I put this as its own strat point bc were playing such a select # of hands at early blinds, that we have to play AK correctly.

Situations when we open w/ AK and get called at low blinds:

1 caller: C-bet 100% of the time regardless of board texture or opponent

2 callers: Still c-bet most of the time, but you don’t have to c-bet the 789 flops and so forth that smash their calling ranges.

3 or + callers: STOP C-BETTING without having hit your hand (e.g.) Top Pair or NFD + 2 overs etc

Situations when Someone opened to 60/80 etc and we reraised to 200-250 with JJ+ and AK and pot is HU.

1. If opp shoves over our 3 bet, just call. Were never folding AK/JJ+ in these. I know I harped on chips lost vs chips won, but AK crushes these idiots ranges who show up with all sorts of bunk.

2. He flats our 3 bet: and were first to act. C-bet 100% of the time if HU.

C-bet 100% of the time if we act last and its HU in a 3 bet pot.

3. Basically in 3 bet pots were c-betting always if the pot is HU. IF its 3 or 4 ways, don’t c-bet in 3 bet pots with out being willing to take it to the felt or knowing theres a really strong chance your opp’s will fold, which is very unlikely.

25/50 level

Stacks are now ~30 bbs.

Don’t flat people in position unless set mining (make sure you are getting the correct implied odds READ THEY NEED TO HAVE A CERTAIN # OF CHIPS: familiarize yourself with th 5/10 rule). In fact, most of the time set mining 30 bbs deep isnt even that profitable at all and I personally dont like it that much, still its not thaat bad. However, obv If a guy with 750 opens to 150 you should not be calling to set mine with 44, even if you have position.

You should still be playing really tight, I don’t mind opening hands in Late position now such as KJs ATo 66 etc etc, but were still not lagging it up and opening 40% of hands on the btn or anything.

When you flop TP or + in a raised pot at this blind level that’s HU its going to be really hard to ever fold, even on a juicy board. E.g 1500 effective stacks you and open AQ to 150 in the HJ. Btn calls and blinds fold. Flop is QhJs9h. Pot is 375. You bet 300 and he makes it 750. Just don’t fold hands like this here. Stick it in at these buy in levels.

50/100

I think this level has been discussed pretty extensivley on this forum, so im not sure I can add much. Basically don’t be opening hands when you cant call shoves (A6o with 1600 in chips and youre in CO and btn is 1200, sb is 1500 and bb is 2000). Getting flatted here really sucks bc of how bloated the pot will be, and it sucks bc youre likely crushed by their shoving range but you’ve laid yourself such a price that folding sucks and losing that % of your stack really, really hurts.

Another thing, at this level you often will have whats known as a resteal stack or be playing against “resteal stacks” that are 13-20 bbs. Restealing to steal is not all that effective in these unless its an active LP opener that is deep enough to fold. Most players at small stakes have a huge aversion to folding once theyve raised preflop. My resteals are almost always for value. Something like 88+ and Aq+ vs most open raises, and if its a late position ACTIVE opener you can obv reshove a lot wider ( Remember though, most players are very passive in these. Remember their raises prolly mean they like their hand. Most dont have any concept of position and a late position raise is the same range as their utg range)

75/150

this is typically the time id start shoving really wide in LP if ive been unfortunate enough to not chip up. And if you have 900-1200 and its folded to you on the btn you can shove a really wide range profitably here. BVB shoves can be very effective. Also, shoving over one or two limpers with hands like two broadways, Ax, and pairs when you have 1400-1800 is another good way to pick up chips here.

100/200 NO ANTE

Shove time really kicks in. Hopefully if you’ve frequented this forum youre familiar with how to play this stack size effectively. Almost every decision will be for effective stacks, even if you are a large stack bc your opponents stack sizes. If your fortunate to have idiots that limp at your table, pray you can pick up some decent hands and shove over their limps for value. However, opponents seem to be more apt to make really donkish limp/calls all in at this level with hands like A6o when they had 2000 chips to start the hand or een 44 and so forth. Dont overestimate your fold equity bc if youve been shoving at the 75/150 level, you may get some spite calls.

100/200 With ANTE

I shove a lot, a lot wider when the ante kicks in. Consider the situation. Were utg with 2000 at 100/200 W/O an ante with A8o at a 9 handed table. Fold. Were in the SB with 2000 at 100/200 WITH an ante. Im shoving just about everything in the second hand. Late position shoves, especially bvb is youre bread and butter in these.

Another thing, in situations against bad players dont give them the illusion that you may fold to their shove if you’d rather not be called.

For example, lets say its folded to you on the btn and you have 4500. The sb has 1800 and the bb has 2000. Dont raise to 500 here with hands that are profitable shoves such as KT and QJs and 66, just shove them. However, if you do have a monster hand such as AA-TT and AK/Aq you can make the 500 raise vs them. Again, i know this is obv easily exploited by observant opponents, but remember your opponents suck and will probably not adjust properly. Make the smaller raise there and give them the opportunity to make a bad preflop call or to shove w/o any fold equity.

ONE GOOD PRINCIPLE TO LIVE BY IS DONT ALLOW YOUR STACK TO GET to 3 bbs in these ever. 5bb shoves still have some fold equity in these, and way more than they should. Just shove any two cards first to the pot with 5bbs instead of letting the blidns hit you. Once that happens your fold equity is completely gone. 5-7 bb shoves gain a lot more respect in these than in a regular mtt bc they represent such a large portion of our opponents stacks.

For example, the table is 6 handed and you have 1500 chips at the 100/200 level with an ante and are utg. You know the blinds are going up the next hand to 200/400 which will completely destroy your fold equity. Thus, i would rather shove 100% of my range here at 100/200 with an ante of 25 with 1600 in chips utg when they may fold, let you increase to 2050 and post the bb of 400 the next hand leaving you with 1650 and if you fold the bb you still have barely enough to warrant some folds when you shove atc first to the pot.

200/400 and ante.

Hopefully you have a nice large stack by now, but a lot of times you’ll only have 3k-4k. I will literally be shoving 100% of my range, or superbly close to it, when its folded to me in the sb, Btn, and even CO at this stage and I have that stack. Typically the table is short handed at this point too. Their calling ranges are extremely narrow, and being able to add those blinds/antes is exteremely beneficial.

Obv there will be some exceptions to this, and sometimes players will call a wider range or get frustrated and spite call you. This is why its imperative to be aware of your image and how often you’ve been pushing.

When youre pushing in these spots, MAKE SURE the people in the BB that youre shoving on have 6-7 bbs in their stack or more. The second they get to 5 or less, the # of people willing to fold a lot of hands diminishes dramatically and requires you to be shoving some semblance of hand bc the likelihood of being called is very high.

300/600 and ante : same as above

When you have the CL: 25,000, or you are the largest stack left to act at around 14k bc the other people that have you covered folded and the people left have between 5-8 bbs, especially when there is one really short stack, is often a time you can start pushing almost any two cards. Their calling ranges become so small, its free money bc they are trying to eek up the ladder. I only do this though when I have 2x the stacks remaining after me.

400/800 and 500/1k and so forth follow the same basic strategy

Down to HU:

If effective stacks are between 9-13 bbs and HU and the person appears to need a hand to call you (Ax or a pair) then go ahead and shove 100% of your hands.

If effective stack is 8bbs or less push/fold obv.

If on a rare occasion you actually have 15-20 bbs effective, you can try to limp on the btn and min bet every flop. When 15-20+ bbs effective and oop, check flop and if he checks behind fire at the turn 100% of the time. They arent ever calling often enough. You can even apply this strategy vs very tight passive players with 9-14 bbs effective. But KNOW YOUR VILLAIN.

Extra nugget 1

You may have noticed i spent very little time discussing calling ranges vs other peoples shoves. Thats bc i tend to believe their shoves mean real hands most of the time. They dont understand how wide they should be shoving, and further, they tend to not call at the 100/200 with antes and 200/400 level nearly as wide as they should. This means there are times i will fold what is undoubtedly a slightly profitable call with a hand like Ax vs a LP shove bc i know i have a much better spot shoving 100% of my range when its folded to me in the sb or LP. Further, psychologically think this way. Its micro limits, so the people playing probably dont like to risk a lot of money or at least dont have access to much of it. Yes there are people who just dont give a crap, but a lot of them have a higher regard for the money at stake than players playing a lot higher.

Extra nugget 2

I think some people may not agree with it, but i think its correct. Lets say you had the unfortunatebreak of losing an all in flip and have around 1-2 bbs. You clearly have no fold equity. So unless the ante is in play and eating away at your stack every hand, theres no reason to stick that last 1- 2 bbs in w/o a legit hand before you get hit by the bb.

I believe youre better off waiting for your bb to hit you and stick it in with whatever youre dealt in the bb. THe reason i say this, is the # of people that tend to call that 1-1.5 bb shove at these levels is huge. It almost always seems to have 3 or 4 callers, but the times you wait for your bb to hit you, the same people seem less apt to play and maybe youll only have to win vs one or two opponents. The other reason i prefer waiting for the bb is if you do win, and double/triple up etc you then have a perfect sb vs bb shove the next hand if its get folded to you. Im sure some people will think this is wrong, but i think its preferable.

Your other good option with 1-1.5 bbs is if someone raises in front of you and you think your hand has 35% or better and everyone else will fold, then you should call. Youre getting a chance to triple up (the sb and bb= 1.5 bbs+ your 1.5 bbs+ 1.5bbs of raiser) in what rates to be a heads up pot. This is a gamble you should take, and definitely take it if the ante’s kicked in already.

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Jei kas turit panasiu zaideju startegiju pasidalinkit

A guide to 45 man turbo sngs on PokerStars.

They fill extremely fast enabling you to play a lot of them. People suck at push/fold poker and I believe the 45 mans are the softest on stars and the easiest way to build a BR at the 1.10, 3.25 and 6.5 and 12 dollar level.

WHY 45 MANS?

I don’t think the play really changes much in these until you reach the 27$ level, and while I have very limited # of games played in the 27$ and + buy in range due to switching over almost exclusively to cash games as ive built my br, the 45 mans are still one of the easiest games to have a very high ROI as well if you get on a nice heater, which can jumpstart a br w/o having near the swongs of the 180 mans. Swings in the 45’s happen, but are not near as brutal as 180 turbos.

BUY INS:

This is completely dependent on your tolerance for risk of ruin. Risk of ruin is you chances of going bust/ losing the br. If you dont want to have to redposit then prolly 50 buy ins or more is needed, but I think you can play these with about 30 buy ins to move up quickly. I think I’ve gone anywhere from 10-15 in a row w/o even cashing, which can be extremely frustrating, but this brings me to my next point.

VOLUME:

Its absolutely critical to put in volume playing these. As I noted the swings can be brutal, and the more tables you play the more immune you become to some of the nasty stuff that happens as you play more hands. It also helps you get to the “long run” quicker” If you cant play 4 tables at a time, you need to learn how.

Hopefully you will get to the point where you can play 6-8 at a time, which most importantly will help you play extremely tight early (which is necessary) bc its extremely difficult to open a bunch of marginal hands playing a lot of tables at one time. Obv there are people who play waaaay more than 6-8 tables at a time (see sidnoobis, mr durden and acid for their specific sngs) but the vast majority of players playing this small of stakes don’t have autohotkeys/game pad set up . However, even w/o that set up, anywhere from 4-8 tables is very doable, and some can still 12 table w/o ahk and gamepad for these.

HUDS:

If you have PT or HEM with a hud running you have a huge advantage for your push/fold decisions in the end game. I know people say stats don’t matter, but when youre multitabling and its folded to you in the sb with 8 bbs and theres an ante in play you really don’t want to be shoving 26s into the 72/15/2 bb. However, if the bb is 12/10/3 then guess who you really want to be shoving on with atc? I hope the answer is obv.

STRATEGY

10/20 and 15/30 level

1. Our basic strategy is uber uber tight at the early levels. This is for a lot of reasons.

2. Losing chips hurt youre $EV more than the increase you get for $ev when you add chips

3. We have a huge edge by applying proper pushing and re-shoving strategy in these as long as we make it to the 50/100 level with a 10-18 bb stack which normally will be the case

4. Most of our opponents will be playing waaay too many hands and calling waaay too many raises pre flop. This means when we open to 60 in the HJ theres a realistic possibility we get flatted by 3 or 4 people. This makes playing hands like KJs and ATo and so on and on not that profitable in these specific sngs, especially given the points noted above.

5. Set mining. DO IT. Don’t open to 3x or 4x with 66 from UTG+1. Just limp along and try to get to the flop as cheaply as possible. Yes this is easily exploited by good players, but guess what, youre not playing against them. Limp your pairs, even first to the pot at the 10/20 and 15/30 level from just about any mid and early position. I still cant let myself open limp in the CO or on the btn with these though.

6. 3 betting ranges (im typically flatting TT-22 and AQ unless its a nit reg opening and then ill even muck aq. Ak and JJ+ is a fine 3 betting range and be prepared to go with it aipf typically

7. AK. I put this as its own strat point bc were playing such a select # of hands at early blinds, that we have to play AK correctly.

Situations when we open w/ AK and get called at low blinds:

1 caller: C-bet 100% of the time regardless of board texture or opponent

2 callers: Still c-bet most of the time, but you don’t have to c-bet the 789 flops and so forth that smash their calling ranges.

3 or + callers: STOP C-BETTING without having hit your hand (e.g.) Top Pair or NFD + 2 overs etc

Situations when Someone opened to 60/80 etc and we reraised to 200-250 with JJ+ and AK and pot is HU.

1. If opp shoves over our 3 bet, just call. Were never folding AK/JJ+ in these. I know I harped on chips lost vs chips won, but AK crushes these idiots ranges who show up with all sorts of bunk.

2. He flats our 3 bet: and were first to act. C-bet 100% of the time if HU.

C-bet 100% of the time if we act last and its HU in a 3 bet pot.

3. Basically in 3 bet pots were c-betting always if the pot is HU. IF its 3 or 4 ways, don’t c-bet in 3 bet pots with out being willing to take it to the felt or knowing theres a really strong chance your opp’s will fold, which is very unlikely.

25/50 level

Stacks are now ~30 bbs.

Don’t flat people in position unless set mining (make sure you are getting the correct implied odds READ THEY NEED TO HAVE A CERTAIN # OF CHIPS: familiarize yourself with th 5/10 rule). In fact, most of the time set mining 30 bbs deep isnt even that profitable at all and I personally dont like it that much, still its not thaat bad. However, obv If a guy with 750 opens to 150 you should not be calling to set mine with 44, even if you have position.

You should still be playing really tight, I don’t mind opening hands in Late position now such as KJs ATo 66 etc etc, but were still not lagging it up and opening 40% of hands on the btn or anything.

When you flop TP or + in a raised pot at this blind level that’s HU its going to be really hard to ever fold, even on a juicy board. E.g 1500 effective stacks you and open AQ to 150 in the HJ. Btn calls and blinds fold. Flop is QhJs9h. Pot is 375. You bet 300 and he makes it 750. Just don’t fold hands like this here. Stick it in at these buy in levels.

50/100

I think this level has been discussed pretty extensivley on this forum, so im not sure I can add much. Basically don’t be opening hands when you cant call shoves (A6o with 1600 in chips and youre in CO and btn is 1200, sb is 1500 and bb is 2000). Getting flatted here really sucks bc of how bloated the pot will be, and it sucks bc youre likely crushed by their shoving range but you’ve laid yourself such a price that folding sucks and losing that % of your stack really, really hurts.

Another thing, at this level you often will have whats known as a resteal stack or be playing against “resteal stacks” that are 13-20 bbs. Restealing to steal is not all that effective in these unless its an active LP opener that is deep enough to fold. Most players at small stakes have a huge aversion to folding once theyve raised preflop. My resteals are almost always for value. Something like 88+ and Aq+ vs most open raises, and if its a late position ACTIVE opener you can obv reshove a lot wider ( Remember though, most players are very passive in these. Remember their raises prolly mean they like their hand. Most dont have any concept of position and a late position raise is the same range as their utg range)

75/150

this is typically the time id start shoving really wide in LP if ive been unfortunate enough to not chip up. And if you have 900-1200 and its folded to you on the btn you can shove a really wide range profitably here. BVB shoves can be very effective. Also, shoving over one or two limpers with hands like two broadways, Ax, and pairs when you have 1400-1800 is another good way to pick up chips here.

100/200 NO ANTE

Shove time really kicks in. Hopefully if you’ve frequented this forum youre familiar with how to play this stack size effectively. Almost every decision will be for effective stacks, even if you are a large stack bc your opponents stack sizes. If your fortunate to have idiots that limp at your table, pray you can pick up some decent hands and shove over their limps for value. However, opponents seem to be more apt to make really donkish limp/calls all in at this level with hands like A6o when they had 2000 chips to start the hand or een 44 and so forth. Dont overestimate your fold equity bc if youve been shoving at the 75/150 level, you may get some spite calls.

100/200 With ANTE

I shove a lot, a lot wider when the ante kicks in. Consider the situation. Were utg with 2000 at 100/200 W/O an ante with A8o at a 9 handed table. Fold. Were in the SB with 2000 at 100/200 WITH an ante. Im shoving just about everything in the second hand. Late position shoves, especially bvb is youre bread and butter in these.

Another thing, in situations against bad players dont give them the illusion that you may fold to their shove if you’d rather not be called.

For example, lets say its folded to you on the btn and you have 4500. The sb has 1800 and the bb has 2000. Dont raise to 500 here with hands that are profitable shoves such as KT and QJs and 66, just shove them. However, if you do have a monster hand such as AA-TT and AK/Aq you can make the 500 raise vs them. Again, i know this is obv easily exploited by observant opponents, but remember your opponents suck and will probably not adjust properly. Make the smaller raise there and give them the opportunity to make a bad preflop call or to shove w/o any fold equity.

ONE GOOD PRINCIPLE TO LIVE BY IS DONT ALLOW YOUR STACK TO GET to 3 bbs in these ever. 5bb shoves still have some fold equity in these, and way more than they should. Just shove any two cards first to the pot with 5bbs instead of letting the blidns hit you. Once that happens your fold equity is completely gone. 5-7 bb shoves gain a lot more respect in these than in a regular mtt bc they represent such a large portion of our opponents stacks.

For example, the table is 6 handed and you have 1500 chips at the 100/200 level with an ante and are utg. You know the blinds are going up the next hand to 200/400 which will completely destroy your fold equity. Thus, i would rather shove 100% of my range here at 100/200 with an ante of 25 with 1600 in chips utg when they may fold, let you increase to 2050 and post the bb of 400 the next hand leaving you with 1650 and if you fold the bb you still have barely enough to warrant some folds when you shove atc first to the pot.

200/400 and ante.

Hopefully you have a nice large stack by now, but a lot of times you’ll only have 3k-4k. I will literally be shoving 100% of my range, or superbly close to it, when its folded to me in the sb, Btn, and even CO at this stage and I have that stack. Typically the table is short handed at this point too. Their calling ranges are extremely narrow, and being able to add those blinds/antes is exteremely beneficial.

Obv there will be some exceptions to this, and sometimes players will call a wider range or get frustrated and spite call you. This is why its imperative to be aware of your image and how often you’ve been pushing.

When youre pushing in these spots, MAKE SURE the people in the BB that youre shoving on have 6-7 bbs in their stack or more. The second they get to 5 or less, the # of people willing to fold a lot of hands diminishes dramatically and requires you to be shoving some semblance of hand bc the likelihood of being called is very high.

300/600 and ante : same as above

When you have the CL: 25,000, or you are the largest stack left to act at around 14k bc the other people that have you covered folded and the people left have between 5-8 bbs, especially when there is one really short stack, is often a time you can start pushing almost any two cards. Their calling ranges become so small, its free money bc they are trying to eek up the ladder. I only do this though when I have 2x the stacks remaining after me.

400/800 and 500/1k and so forth follow the same basic strategy

Down to HU:

If effective stacks are between 9-13 bbs and HU and the person appears to need a hand to call you (Ax or a pair) then go ahead and shove 100% of your hands.

If effective stack is 8bbs or less push/fold obv.

If on a rare occasion you actually have 15-20 bbs effective, you can try to limp on the btn and min bet every flop. When 15-20+ bbs effective and oop, check flop and if he checks behind fire at the turn 100% of the time. They arent ever calling often enough. You can even apply this strategy vs very tight passive players with 9-14 bbs effective. But KNOW YOUR VILLAIN.

Extra nugget 1

You may have noticed i spent very little time discussing calling ranges vs other peoples shoves. Thats bc i tend to believe their shoves mean real hands most of the time. They dont understand how wide they should be shoving, and further, they tend to not call at the 100/200 with antes and 200/400 level nearly as wide as they should. This means there are times i will fold what is undoubtedly a slightly profitable call with a hand like Ax vs a LP shove bc i know i have a much better spot shoving 100% of my range when its folded to me in the sb or LP. Further, psychologically think this way. Its micro limits, so the people playing probably dont like to risk a lot of money or at least dont have access to much of it. Yes there are people who just dont give a crap, but a lot of them have a higher regard for the money at stake than players playing a lot higher.

Extra nugget 2

I think some people may not agree with it, but i think its correct. Lets say you had the unfortunatebreak of losing an all in flip and have around 1-2 bbs. You clearly have no fold equity. So unless the ante is in play and eating away at your stack every hand, theres no reason to stick that last 1- 2 bbs in w/o a legit hand before you get hit by the bb.

I believe youre better off waiting for your bb to hit you and stick it in with whatever youre dealt in the bb. THe reason i say this, is the # of people that tend to call that 1-1.5 bb shove at these levels is huge. It almost always seems to have 3 or 4 callers, but the times you wait for your bb to hit you, the same people seem less apt to play and maybe youll only have to win vs one or two opponents. The other reason i prefer waiting for the bb is if you do win, and double/triple up etc you then have a perfect sb vs bb shove the next hand if its get folded to you. Im sure some people will think this is wrong, but i think its preferable.

Your other good option with 1-1.5 bbs is if someone raises in front of you and you think your hand has 35% or better and everyone else will fold, then you should call. Youre getting a chance to triple up (the sb and bb= 1.5 bbs+ your 1.5 bbs+ 1.5bbs of raiser) in what rates to be a heads up pot. This is a gamble you should take, and definitely take it if the ante’s kicked in already.

įdomu kada čia parašę šitą tavo literatūra, nes dabar kaip jis aiškina, tai tikria nieks nefoldina taip wide kaip jis čia prirašęs, kad iš BTN atc šaudo, restealing galima dar plačiau, priklausomai nuo oponento iš tikro. O, daugiau viskas kaip ir easy, ir pasižiūrėjus žaidėjų lygį su tokia strategija geriausiu atveju iki ~3.5$ galima lošti, paskui jau reikia keisti, strategija ir šaudyt dar lighčiau

įdomu kada čia parašę šitą tavo literatūra, nes dabar kaip jis aiškina, tai tikria nieks nefoldina taip wide kaip jis čia prirašęs, kad iš BTN atc šaudo, restealing galima dar plačiau, priklausomai nuo oponento iš tikro. O, daugiau viskas kaip ir easy, ir pasižiūrėjus žaidėjų lygį su tokia strategija geriausiu atveju iki ~3.5$ galima lošti, paskui jau reikia keisti, strategija ir šaudyt dar lighčiau

manau kad senoka strategija2metu senumo gal, bet 1.50 ir 3.50 usd lygyje, manau turetu veikti ji. Apie kuriuos ir duomiuosi dabar:) tik va labai idomu butu jusu nuomone koks jusu range turetu but kad atsakytum i oponento shove ? aisku sakysit nuo situacijos priklauso, bet atmetus readus koks standart range butu vidurinije turnyro dalyje( 50-100 iki 150-300+ant)??

sveikas. gal gali pasakyt, kur galimadar būtų ta tema pasiskaitinė, nes tai aktuali tema ėiuo metu

Tushkus]Jei kas turit panasiu zaideju startegiju pasidalinkit [/b]

jei tureciau daugiau neprasyciau kad kiti pasidalintu

Tushkau, labai priklauso nuo to koki stack turi ir kiek oponentu like. Jei sakykim esat bubble, tai BBvsSB gali pakankamai placiai kolinti ypac jei matai kad opas is desnes stelina every unopened pot. Manau jei esi short stack burbule, tai su any suted A, any PP, broadway, suted Kx, suted Q7+ gali kolinti. bet tai irgi priklauso nuo to, kas tau is kaires sedi. jei nitas ir is jo turi galimybe stealinti ( is desines nera kokio nors kuris bulina stala ), tai geriau naudotis situacija ir geriau paciam stealinti. Plius priklauso koks tavo stacko skirtumas nuo artimiausio shortstacko. Jei nedidelis ir jis tarkim HBL ( high blind limper ), kas daznai pasitaiko tam limite, tai kolini siauriau, nes toks visada prisizais ir iskris pirmesnis. bet betkokiu atveju, budamas short ant buble, konservatyviausiai kolinciau su 77+, A8's+, A10'o+; KQ; J10's; KJ's ir gal K10's BBvsSB.

Cia tik mano nuomone, tikiu kad yra kas sukritikuos.

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